Quick Guide to the Columbia River Gorge in Winter

Wahclella Falls trail winter

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When the sky turns gray and the undergrowth becomes little more than bare branches and brambles, the character of the Columbia River Gorge changes. What was once lush and cheerful turns somber, brooding, and even forbidding. While still magical, the woods look less like an idyllic fairyland and more like the enchanted forests of German folklore. With a good raincoat and mud-resistant boots, there is no better time to admire the power and beauty of the waterfalls. As a bonus, the crowds of summer will be at home with a cup of tea and a warm blanket. Oh dauntless adventurer, here is everything you need to know about visiting the Columbia Gorge in the winter.

Winter highlights of the Columbia River Gorge

Waterfalls

Wahclella Falls Trail

This wispy waterfall near Wahclella Falls disappears in drier months

Without a doubt, waterfalls in the Pacific Northwest look their best in winter and spring. Rainfall and, later, snowmelt fill the streams, rivers, and creeks of the Columbia Gorge, sending impressive volumes of water over its cliffs. Waterfalls that dried up to a humble trickle in late summer become majestic once more in late fall.

Best of all are the seasonal waterfalls that form after a long rain. Uncounted and mostly unnamed, these seasonal falls appear all over the western Columbia Gorge. The Historic Columbia River Highway, the Eagle Creek Trail, and the Wahclella Falls Trail are good places to see them. On a December visit to the Eagle Creek Trail, I gave up counting the seasonal waterfalls after seeing over a dozen in less than two miles. Perhaps the Columbia Gorge’s most noticeable seasonal waterfall is at Multnomah Falls, where a misty stream of water sometimes appears, resembling a faint shadow of its upper tier.

Fewer crowds

I’m alone on the Beacon Rock Trail on a rare sunny day at the end of November

I probably should have led with this one. By far my favorite part of winter hiking in the Columbia Gorge is that the crowds aren’t there. I live in Portland and visit the Gorge at least as often in winter as in summer to have the place to myself. Popular trails become reachable and even quiet starting around October or November. Go ahead and wake up whenever you want on a weekend day, eat brunch first, and then go for your favorite hike. It may be rainy, but at least you can find parking when you get there.

Plants

Grass widows Rowena Plateau

Grass widows blooming on the Rowena Plateau in February

With so many conifers, ferns, and mosses, the Columbia Gorge stays pretty green even in the heart of winter. Fall color peaks in October and disappears by early December. Late fall and early winter are good times to look for mushrooms in the undergrowth and on fallen tree trunks. You might also see bright red rosehips or small white snowberries.

The best wildflower displays happen from April through June, but the first blooms can appear as early as February. Look for grass widows, Columbia desert parsley, and Piper’s desert parsley in the sunny grasslands of the eastern Columbia Gorge. Places like the Rowena Plateau, Catherine Creek, and Lyle Cherry Orchard would be good spots to start your search for the earliest bloomers.

Things to consider

Weather

Nesmith Point Columbia River Gorge

Dramatic clouds over Nesmith Point in February

When you search online for pictures of the Columbia Gorge in winter, you’ll see a lot of snow. In reality, it mostly rains. From December through February, average high temperatures in Casace Locks are in the mid-40s F. Average lows are in the mid-30s F. Although the Columbia Gorge does get snow, it usually falls on areas higher in elevation than the highway or the popular hiking trails. Check conditions before you go and be prepared for a change in the weather, but it’s rare that you would need to break out the tire chains. If there is a winter storm, avoid traveling if you can. The roads can get harrowing.

Wahclella Falls trail winter

The Wahclella Falls Trail after an ice storm in January

The climate in the Columbia Gorge changes around Hood River due to the rainshadow of the Cascade Mountains. To the west, expect shady conifer forests and lots of rain. Regardless of the weather report, you will probably get rained on at least a little. The good news is that it rarely pours. Decent rain gear can usually keep you comfortable while you hike.

The eastern Columbia Gorge is drier and more open

To the east of Hood River, the trees thin and become grassy rolling hills. If you want to escape the rain, this part of the Columbia Gorge is your best bet. That being said, strong winds off the Columbia River can make things chilly. Bring layers and warm clothes.

Besides the weather, it’s also a good idea to consider daylight. Winter in the Pacific Northwest means short days and early sunsets. If planning a longer hike, you’ll want to be done by about 4 PM to avoid walking in the dark.

Trail conditions

Snow Weisendanger Falls

Snow made the Multnomah Falls - Wahkeena Falls loop trail difficult on my January hike

Some hiking trails in the Columbia Gorge become more difficult in the winter because of mud, snow, and ice. The higher you go in elevation, the greater your chances of running into challenging trail conditions. Many of the most popular trails are low enough in elevation that they are usually snow-free throughout the year. The Multnomah Falls - Wahkeena Falls Loop is a notable exception. Check the forecast and the US Forest Service website for any weather-related trail closures before heading out.

Passes and permits

Dog Mountain doesn’t require a timed reservation in the winter

The most popular places in the Gorge, like Multnomah Falls and Dog Mountain, require seasonal timed reservations in the summer. In winter, you can arrive whenever you want without reserving a permit in advance.

Many trailheads and day-use areas in the Columbia Gorge require year-round passes like the NW Forest Pass (OR and WA National Forests), the Discover Pass (Washington State Parks), or the Oregon State Park Pass. Check trailhead regulations before heading out. There is not always a way to purchase a pass when you arrive. Learn more about passes and permits in my detailed guide here.

Multnomah Falls in the winter

Ice lingers behind the Multnomah Falls after winter storms in January of 2024

The most famous attraction in the Columbia Gorge, Multnomah Falls, is stunning at any time of the year. In winter, tons of water will be pouring over the falls, adding to the drama of its two-tiered plunge. After the deciduous trees lose their leaves, mossy cliffs keep the scenery from becoming colorless. The paths from the parking lots to the falls are paved and don’t get muddy even when it’s raining (and it probably will be). The trail leading from the base of the falls to the top is paved almost the entire way. This trail does occasionally close due to weather conditions.

The Multnomah Falls Lodge is open year-round, including its restaurant, gift shop, and restrooms. You can park for free during the winter, and you don’t need a pass or permit. The smaller lot across from the falls fills up during the day, but I’ve never seen the larger parking lot off I-84 full in the winter, even on weekends.

The Columbia Gorge does get winter storms that can bring snow and ice to Multnomah Falls. A recent visit after an ice storm reminded me that people don’t always remember that a tourist attraction in nature is still nature. Among the more questionable decisions I saw were carrying a baby stroller over glare ice, using crutches on glare ice, lowering an elderly woman dressed for summer into a tunnel carved through deep snow, and climbing over a gate to access a closed trail. As always, please use common sense, especially during winter weather conditions.

Great winter hikes in the Columbia Gorge

Do the rewarding 0.8-mile hike from Horsetail Falls to Ponytail Falls. If it’s not icy, you can continue to Triple Falls, a 4.2-mile roundtrip hike.

Hike a little over 2 miles to reach powerful Wahclella Falls.

Follow a thrilling 4.5-mile trail along the Eagle Creek Canyon to Punch Bowl Falls.

Hike 1.8 miles on the Beacon Rock Trail to see phenomenal Columbia Gorge views from the core of an ancient volcano (1.8 miles out and back).

See impressive waterfalls on the Washington side of the Gorge on the 2.5-mile hike to Hardy Falls, Rodney Falls, and Pool of the Winds.

Find incredible viewpoints on the Cape Horn Loop Hike. Visit before January 31st to do the full loop.

Avoid the mud on the 9-mile Mosier Twin Tunnels Trail.

Other things to do in the Columbia Gorge in winter

Even when the vines are dormant, Mt Adams looks great from Stave and Stone Winery

  • Take in the views from Vista House, an observatory perched over 700 feet above the Columbia River.

  • Go wine tasting. Both Washington and Oregon have some excellent wineries with tasting rooms in beautiful places. The Columbia Gorge is rich with microclimates and grows many types of grapes, ranging from Pinot noir to Nebbiolo to Gewurztraminer. Expect a more laidback vibe and more affordable tasting fees here than in the Willamette Valley.

  • Stay dry on a rainy day by touring Bonneville Dam, one of the largest hydroelectric facilities in the country. It’s free to visit. On your way, look for the Bonneville Fish Hatchery where you can see a 500-pound white sturgeon named Herman.

  • Explore Hood River. Walk along the Columbia River at Hood River Waterfront Park, then cross the road to check out the restaurants. If it’s raining, head downtown to browse the shops.

  • Head east to find the best things to do in The Dalles.

  • Near Maryhill, Washington, see the replica of Stonehenge and its panoramic views of the Gorge.

  • Learn about local history, nature, and culture at the Columbia Gorge Discovery Center or Columbia Gorge Interpretative Museum.

What to bring

You might want extra traction on an icy day

  • First and foremost, you’ll want a waterproof winter coat. It should both keep you dry and have some insulation for the cold. I’d suggest this winter raincoat for women or this one for men.

  • Keep your phone and, for fellow photographers, camera equipment dry with a waterproof backpack. For an inexpensive and reliable starter pack, I like this Naturehike Day Pack. For a deluxe backpack that you could completely submerge in water without regrets if you were so inspired, try out this Yeti pack.

  • Already have a backpack? A cheap and easy hack is to throw a waterproof backpack cover over it.

  • Bring hiking boots that can walk through water and mud. I love my waterproof Timberland hiking boots and will buy them again whenever they wear out. There is a similar pair for men.

  • If you run into ice on the trail, you’ll feel a lot more stable wearing Yaktrax. They also work well for icy sidewalks in town.

  • If you hike in the snow, bring poles and microspikes.

  • Water

  • A Northwest Forest Pass

Enjoy your winter visit to the Columbia River Gorge!

With love,

Emma

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