The Amazing Rocks of McPhillips Beach
Cape Kiwanda and Haystack Rock from McPhillips Beach
Cape Kiwanda near Pacific City is one of the most popular and photogenic destinations on the Oregon Coast, but few visitors venture to McPhillips Beach at the north end of the cape. Although still part of Cape Kiwanda State Natural Area, this beach offers a completely different perspective for viewing the spectacular contours of the headland. At McPhillips Beach, you’ll be at water level, gazing up at the incredible sandstone cliffs, fallen rocks, and sea stacks of Cape Kiwanda. Here is everything you need to know about visiting McPhillips Beach.
Sandstone canyon at McPhillips Beach
Know before you go
Cars are allowed to drive on McPhillips Beach from the beach entrance south to the rock formations at Cape Kiwanda. Cars are no longer allowed to drive on the beach at Tierra del Mar to the north.
Although driving on the beach is allowed, it is not necessarily recommended. Cars do get stuck here sometimes.
There are no amenities at McPhillips Beach other than the port-a-potty next to its parking lot.
Visit at low tide to see tidepool critters clinging to the rocks and sea stacks.
Dogs are welcome on the beach.
Visit on a calm day if you can. It will be easier and safer to explore the cliffs near the water.
Aggregating anemones
What to see at McPhillips Beach
It’s a short walk (about 0.1 miles) from the small parking lot to McPhillips Beach and the Pacific Ocean. Just to the north, you’ll see a short ridge of basalt. On the other side, you can look north to Tierra del Mar and the headland of Cape Lookout in the distance. While there are some lovely views here, the most interesting landscapes on McPhillips Beach are about a mile to the south of the beach entrance.
Climb over the short ridge on McPhillips Beach to see the view to the north
Even at a distance, you’ll have no trouble spotting the dunes and cliffs of Cape Kiwanda at the southern end of McPhillips Beach. Look for Haystack Rock, a 340-foot basalt monolith, about a mile offshore from the cape. This giant sea stack shares its name with the famous Haystack Rock of Cannon Beach simply for the sake of creating confusion as far as I can tell. Although Pacific City’s Haystack Rock is larger, it is also farther offshore and the distance makes it harder to appreciate the sea stack’s full height. When conditions are right, you can see a mirror image of Haystack Rock and Cape Kiwanda reflected in the wet sands of the beach.
Cliffs of Cape Kiwanda
Once you’ve walked about a mile down the beach toward Cape Kiwanda, things start to get unbelievably cool. The cape’s fragile headland has eroded to form a dramatic sandstone canyon. On a calm day, you can enter the canyon and admire the vibrant orange and rust-red colors of the sandstone walls. Boulders at the base of the canyon attest to how ocean storms and waves continue to shape the cliffs here. The boulders also form a natural dam that allows you to stand on the beach below sea level. Explore this area cautiously and only when the ocean is calm.
Boulders at the base of the sandstone canyon form a barrier between the beach and the ocean
Look for the distinctive angular sandstone formation through the natural frame of the canyon walls. There is an elegant sea arch at its base that, while inaccessible, is irresistible to admire from a distance. If you visit at low tide, look for intertidal critters at the base of the cliffs and sea stacks. I saw aggregating anemones, a lone chiton, a few bright purple sea stars, and barnacles galore when I visited. There were also some tiny fish in the shallow pools around the boulders at the base of the canyon.
Intriguing but inaccessible sea arch
Geology of McPhillips Beach and Cape Kiwanda
Cape Kiwanda is one of the most rapidly changing landscapes on the Oregon Coast because of its unique geology. Most of Oregon’s coastal headlands are made of basalt, either from local eruptions or far-reaching lava flows millions of years ago. Basalt is good at resisting erosion and tends to endure despite being pummeled by ocean waves and storms. This feature makes it excellent at forming long-lived cliffs and sea stacks on the coast.
Cape Kiwanda is mostly sandstone, which is more fragile than basalt. Elsewhere on the coast, it would have become a sandy beach by now. Geologists believe that these sandstone cliffs have lasted thanks to the presence of the giant basalt sea stack, Haystack Rock. Long ago, the sandstone of Cape Kiwanda would have extended out to Haystack Rock, and this basalt cap would have protected it from the elements and delayed its erosion.
Weathering produces the varied colors of Cape Kiwanda’s sandstone
Although it has shown unusual resilience, Cape Kiwanda is eroding quickly (by geologic standards). Rain, waves, and wind have carved its cliffs into amazing and ever-evolving shapes from arches to channels to sea caves. The pile of rocks and boulders at the base of Cape Kiwanda at McPhillips Beach is a testament to the ongoing processes that are shaping and reshaping the cape. Weathering has turned the gray of the sandstone into a buff color streaked with pale yellows, oranges, and rust reds.
Looking north toward McPhillips Beach from the base of Cape Kiwanda
Finding McPhillips Beach
From Pacific City:
McPhillips Beach keeps a low profile. Although not hard to reach, you could easily drive by its entrance without realizing it. Since McPhillips Beach is less than two miles north of the main Cape Kiwanda day-use area, it is easy to see both sides of the cape in a day. From the day-use area at Pacific City Beach (next to Pelican Brewing Company), head north about 1.5 miles on McPhillips Dr. Look for an unmarked road on your left. Make a sharp left onto this road and head down the hill. Go slowly here. The road is only wide enough for one vehicle to fit comfortably. It can be tricky if you’re coming while someone else is leaving.
From here you have two choices. You can park at the small parking lot on your right and walk to the beach or continue a short distance down the road in your car to drive on the beach. If you aren’t planning on driving on the beach, be sure to stop at the parking lot. There isn’t an easy way to turn around if you pass it.
I get nervous about getting stuck in the sand with my car and enjoy a walk on the beach, so I went on foot. The most interesting features of McPhillips Beach are about a mile from the beach entrance so driving could make the trip more convenient if you have the vehicle and the confidence for it.
Looking north from McPhillips Beach toward Cape Lookout
From Portland:
To reach McPhillips Beach from Portland, take Highway 26 West for about 20 miles, then make a slight left onto Highway 6 West toward Tillamook. Once you reach Tillamook, follow the signs for Highway 101 South. Take Highway 101 South for 9 miles, then turn right onto Sandlake Rd. After 4 miles, take a left to stay on Sandlake Rd. Sandlake Rd will become McPhillips Dr. Follow this road for about 6.5 miles and look for a slight right turn on an unmarked road. If you reach the day-use area at Pacific City Beach (next to Pelican Brewing Company), you’ve gone too far. The drive from Portland will take about 2 hours.
Head south to explore the headland of Cape Kiwanda
What to do nearby
Head 1.5 miles south down McPhillips Dr to explore more of Cape Kiwanda. From the southern end of the cape, you can walk up to the top of the headland and admire the cliffs from above. Be sure to look for the recently formed sinkhole.
Walk along the beach trails at Bob Straub State Park.
Try out the famed Three Capes Scenic Drive, a 40-mile drive along a coastal byway that includes Cape Meares, Cape Lookout, and Cape Kiwanda.
Explore the area around Oceanside, Oregon, including the intriguing tunnel that connects Oceanside Beach and Tunnel Beach, the twisting limbs of the Octopus Tree, and the striking waterfall of secluded Short Beach.
Visit the Neskowin Ghost Forest at low tide to see the preserved stumps of 2,000-year-old Sitka Spruce trees.
Enjoy the amazing rocks of McPhillips Beach!
With love,
Emma
Looking for more to do at the Coast? From north to south, here are trip suggestions and travel tips for:
Also, check out my guides to the wildlife of the Oregon Coast and Oregon geology.
Reference:
Lund, E. H. “Coastal Landforms between Roads End and Tillamook Bay, Oregon.” The ORE Bin, vol. 36, no. 11, Nov. 1974, pp. 173–195.
