How to Find the Pacific Northwest Trolls
Come join me on the Trollgrimmage, the grand chivalric quest to find trolls in the Pacific Northwest. To see them all, you’ll go by foot, by car, and by boat. It’s a scavenger hunt that will take you from urban centers to less-traveled corners of Washington and Oregon. Once you arrive, there’s no missing them. Nearly 20 feet tall with limbs as thick as tree trunks, they tower over their puny human visitors. Stay alert and keep your wits about you. This quest is not for the faint of heart. Here’s how to find the Pacific Northwest’s Way of the Bird King trolls.
About the trolls
Trolls began appearing around Washington and Oregon in the summer of 2023. After a few weeks, there were six. They joined a thriving global population. Danish environmental artist Thomas Dambo has created over 100 trolls around the world using recycled and foraged materials. By transforming trash into magical creatures, he shows the value and potential of discarded things.
The six trolls in the Pacific Northwest are Dambo’s Way of the Bird King exhibit, a collaboration with the Coastal Salish tribal communities. Five of them are in the Seattle area. The sixth is in Portland. These are the trolls:
Jakob Two Trees in Issaquah
Frankie Feetsplinter in Ballard
Oscar, the Bird King, on Vashon Island
Bruun Idun in West Seattle
Pia, the Peacekeeper, on Bainbridge Island
Ole Bolle in Portland
During my Trollgrimmage, I became familiar with their style: a giant wood shingle onesie, massive human-snatching hands, eyes that follow you. It’s the details that give each troll its personality. Some are curious and playful, others reserved. All look powerful enough to make humans into lunchmeat on a whim.
The Pacific Northwest trolls won’t last forever. They’ll stay until natural weathering takes its course, at least three years after their installation in 2023. It’s fine to touch them but not to climb on them. Besides being generally unwise to climb on a troll, leaving them be will help them last longer.
Oscar, the Bird King, on Vashon Island
How long does it take to see the trolls?
If speed is your goal, you could see all the Pacific Northwest trolls in two days. One day would be for the five trolls in the Seattle area. The other would be for Portland. To reach the trolls on Vashon Island and Bainbridge Island from Seattle, you’ll need to take the ferry. It would take careful planning with the ferry schedules to make it to all the Seattle area trolls in a day, but it’s doable.
If your schedule allows it, take your time. The trolls are in cool places. Each could be a fun day trip. Here’s an itinerary that would leave time to explore:
Day one: Issaquah and Ballard
Day two: Vashon Island and West Seattle
Day three: Bainbridge Island
Day four: Portland
Go ahead and switch up the order. There’s no right or wrong way to start the quest.
The trolls on Vashon Island and Bainbridge Island involve a ferry ride from Seattle
Cost
All the Pacific Northwest trolls are free to visit. The only costs are for transportation and, for the Ballard troll, parking.
Do you need a car to see the trolls?
The short answer is, yes, you need a car to see all the Pacific Northwest trolls. It’s technically possible to get to all of them without one, but it’s harder. Oscar on Vashon Island is the trickiest since public transit doesn’t go to his location. You would need to bring a bike on the ferry and then bike 10-12 miles from the terminal to Point Robinson Park.
If you’re taking public transit, the trolls in West Seattle, Ballard, and Bainbridge Island are the easiest to reach. Issaquah’s troll is also walkable from bus routes. Portland’s troll is across from a bus stop, but it’s not a quick trip from downtown. Think over an hour on transit with at least one transfer versus a 20-minute drive.
The trolls
Jakob Two Trees: Issaquah
Where to go
Start at the Issaquah Community Center, 301 Rainier Blvd S, Issaquah, WA 98027.
Walk south on the Rainier Trail for a quarter mile. The troll is next to the trail.
How to get there
By car, drive to the Issaquah Community Center. Parking is free.
Take the bus. Sound Transit line 554 has a stop near the troll.
Issaquah’s troll is on the Rainier Trail, a shared walking and biking trail that connects to other parts of town.
About the troll
Jakob Two Trees looks the friendliest of the Pacific Northwest trolls. His face has a mild, welcoming smile as he looks down on his human admirers. His enormous hands gently grasp two mature trees without any threat of snapping them. He wears a necklace of birdhouses. His long hair of foraged sticks is pulled back in a band of woven cedar bark. He is the first of Thomas Dambo’s trolls to have a ponytail. The Snoqualmie tribe collaborated on his design and provided accessories, including his ponytail holder. Jakob lives next to the Rainier Trail, a flat and easy paved trail through the woods. It only takes about a quarter mile of walking to reach the troll, but the trail continues and connects to other trails in town.
Post-troll destinations
Issaquah is in a unique area close to both Seattle and Washington’s wild spaces. A 20-minute drive west will bring you to the attractions in downtown Seattle. In the other direction is the breathtaking 270-foot Snoqualmie Falls. If your troll quest is on a condensed timeline, head back to Seattle and see Ballard’s troll. Then, take the ferry to one of the island trolls. If you have time for a day trip near Issaquah, head east and try out a hike around Snoqualmie Pass.
Learn more about Issaquah’s troll.
Frankie Feetsplinter: Ballard
Where to go
Frankie is in front of the National Nordic Museum, 2655 NW Market St, Seattle, WA 98107.
How to get there
Drive to the National Nordic Museum. A metered parking lot is at the back of the museum (about $2/hour). There is also limited free street parking nearby.
Bus lines 17, 44, and 40 will get you close to the Nordic Museum.
Walk or bike. The troll is on NW Market St, which has sidewalks and a bike lane.
About the troll
Frankie Feetsplinter is the only urban-dwelling troll in the Way of the Bird King. Rather than being tucked back in the woods, he stands in front of Seattle’s National Nordic Museum on busy NW Market St. You’ll see him from the car if you drive through the Ballard neighborhood. In sharp contrast with the museum’s sedate minimalism, he’s making a scene. One of the museum’s benches lies smashed under his foot. His face is the picture of a younger brother pondering mischief. Approach if you dare. His outstretched fingers await unsuspecting admirers.
Post-troll destinations
Inside the National Nordic Museum is a cafe with Scandinavian-inspired snacks, a gift shop, and exhibits on Nordic culture and history. The museum charges admission but offers a free day on the first Thursday of the month.
Just down Market St, the Ballard Locks and Botanical Garden are a five-minute walk from the troll. On the way, you’ll pass by an indoor climbing gym. The locks are fun to visit any time of year but best in summer and fall when you can look for migrating salmon in the underwater viewing windows. On a nice day, bring a picnic to watch the ships pass through the locks from the botanical garden’s shady lawn.
Learn more about Ballard’s troll.
Oscar, the Bird King: Vashon Island
Where to go
Head to Point Robinson Park, 3705 SW Point Robinson Rd, Vashon, WA 98070. Follow the trail from the upper parking lot. Oscar is just around the corner.
How to get there
Take the ferry to Vashon Island from Tacoma or West Seattle.
Drive (or bike) to Point Robinson Park.
About the troll
Oscar, the Bird King, is the monarch of the Pacific Northwest trolls. Even seated on his log throne, he is the largest and most imposing of the group. His open-air court is in the middle of a forested park next to Puget Sound. Birdhouses on posts surround his court, housing his subjects. More birdhouses decorate his crown. His gaze meets you whenever you stand but is most imperious at the end of his outstretched finger. Visitors will face his judgment, and the verdict is far from certain.
Post-troll destinations
If you survive your encounter with Oscar, it’s worth exploring the hiking trails in Point Robinson Park, about a mile in total. One of the trails leads to the Point Robinson Lighthouse on the shores of Puget Sound. Across the water are West Seattle’s Alki Point and, on a clear day, views of Mt Rainier. After seeing the park, Vashon Island offers plenty to fill up a day trip from beaches to farm stands to restaurants.
If you’re taking the ferry back to West Seattle, it’s easy to see another troll on the same day as Oscar. Bruun Idun in Lincoln Park is less than a mile from the ferry terminal.
Learn more about visiting Oscar, the Bird King, and Bruun Idun.
Bruun Idun: West Seattle
Where to go
Bruun Idun is in Lincoln Park, 8011 Fauntleroy Wy SW, Seattle, WA 98136. Once at the park, take the trail along the Sound. Look for the troll near the Colman swimming pool.
How to get there
By car, drive to Lincoln Park and park in one of two parking lots on Fauntleroy Way. Both are free.
By bus, the RapidRide C Line will bring you within easy walking distance of the troll.
About the troll
Bruun Idun stands on the shores of Puget Sound. Unlike her fellow trolls, she pays no attention to human visitors. Her mind is elsewhere as she plays her flute, calling for the orcas to return. Looking closely, you’ll see orca designs carved in the wood of the flute, a creation of Muckleshoot artist Coyote. Bruun Idun’s adornments reflect her connection with the sea. Her jewelry is made of shells. Her hair is driftwood foraged from the beach. At her feet, humans have left a pile of shell offerings to show their appreciation.
Post-troll destinations
West Seattle has access to Puget Sound without the crowds and hassle of downtown. Close to Lincoln Park is Alki Point, the westernmost point in Seattle, where a promenade runs along the beach. You may spot seals or sea lions bobbing in the water while you walk. On the other side of the road, blocks of bars and restaurants provide excellent spots for people-watching while having drinks and snacks. A mobile sauna sometimes visits the beaches of Alki Point, which is most appealing on rainy days.
Pia, the Peacekeeper: Bainbridge Island
Where to go
Head to Sakai Park, Madison Ave N, Bainbridge Island, WA 98110. Take the trail from the parking lot. You’ll see Pia just past the Troll sign.
How to get there
Take the ferry from Colman Terminal in downtown Seattle to Bainbridge Island.
Drive, walk, bike, or take the bus from the ferry terminal to Sakai Park. It’s about 1.5 miles away.
About the troll
Pia strikes me as the wildcard of the Pacific Northwest trolls. While she lacks the raw destructive energy of Frankie, her body language is not exactly friendly. She studies whatever is in her hands with a detached curiosity, much like a scientist or a child with an interesting bug. If that bug is a puny human, so much the better. At 18 feet tall, she’s one of the larger trolls, even when sitting crosslegged. Her long necklace is made of shells and driftwood pieces. Approach her with respect. You’ll want to stay on her good side.
Post-troll destinations
Pia, the Peacekeeper, lives in Sakai Park, where around 0.6 miles of hiking trails explore a pretty forest with a small wetland area. After seeing the park, Bainbridge Island has more attractions. Close to the ferry terminal is a main street with shops, bakeries, restaurants, and a free art museum. If you’re visiting the island without a car, this town center is walkable and on the way to the troll. If you bring your car on the ferry, Bainbridge Island has other parks and beaches to explore. One of the most impressive is Bloedel Reserve, a 140-acre garden and nature preserve.
Learn more about visiting Pia, the Peacekeeper.
Ole Bolle: Portland
Where to go
Head to Nordia Northwest, 8800 SW Oleson Rd, Portland, OR 97223. Follow the Troll sign to find Ole Bolle.
How to get there
Nordic Northwest is on the outskirts of Portland. By car, it’s a 20-minute drive from downtown. Parking is free.
Trimet bus #45 stops across the street.
About the troll
Ole Bolle is the only Way of the Bird King troll in Oregon. He lives in southwest Portland on the grounds of Fogelbo, a Swedish-style log house on the National Register of Historic Places. Behind the historic home is a collection of buildings arranged like a miniature village. Ole Bolle has taken the roof off one of them and is examining the inside. The target of his search is unclear. One hopes that it’s the pastries on the table rather than his human admirers. Bald as an egg and 19 feet tall when kneeling, he is childlike and formidable at once.
Post-troll destinations
After seeing Portland’s troll, stop inside Nordia House for lunch. Broder Sud serves excellent Scandinavian food with fresh seasonal ingredients. Consider putting your name down for a reservation when you arrive. There’s usually a wait. If you end up waiting for a table, have a look around the gift shop and the small gallery space. It’s free and shows rotating art and cultural exhibits.
Bonus: Fremont Troll
I can’t talk about Pacific Northwest trolls without mentioning the OG and the Granddaddy, the Fremont Troll. Long before the Way of the Bird King trolls began appearing, the Fremont Troll has been lurking under a bridge, crushing Volkswagon Beetles, and generally wreaking havoc since 1991. Intended as a creative form of hostile architecture, the Fremont Troll has evolved into a cultural icon that draws locals and tourists alike. After visiting the troll under the Aurora Bridge, take a walk around the Fremont neighborhood. Gas Works Park is nearby, as is a cool neighborhood center around the Lenin statue.
The Fremont Troll is at N 36th Street, Troll Ave N, Seattle, WA 98103.
Enjoy your Pacific Northwest troll scavenger hunt!
With love,
Emma
